On a trip through the South of France, we arrived at Arles in Provence expecting Roman heritage and the famous quality of light that inspired Van Gogh. What we didn’t expect was LUMA Arles. This spectacular contemporary arts complex is a genuinely bold addition that has reshaped the cultural map of this historic city.
Enjoy a tune while browsing.
LUMA is situated on the southeast side of the city. It took us about 10-15 minutes to walk from Place de La Republique, the center of Arles.
Although we had seen photos of the Tower in advertisement, encountering it in person was still a stunning experience— as we walked toward it, the structure appeared otherworldly, a surreal, gleaming object rising before us.
Conceived by Swiss collector Maja Hoffmann, the LUMA campus is set within the former Parc des Ateliers railway yard, blending striking contemporary architecture—most notably Frank Gehry’s shimmering tower—with restored industrial buildings.
The Tower, inaugurated in 2021 is a 15,000-square-meter building, made up of exhibition halls, research rooms, and event venues.
The centerpiece is the 56-meter-high tower, clad in 11,000 stainless steel panels, symbolizing both Arles’ geological formations and Van Gogh’s swirling brushstrokes.
LUMA’s programming includes rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists, research collaborations with institutions like MIT and Atelier Luma (its design lab focused on bioregional materials), and artist residencies encouraging interdisciplinary experimentation.
It also partners with events like Les Rencontres d’Arles, the renowned annual photography festival.
Krauses Gekröse (twisted guts) by Franz West is a 13-metre-high sculpture in pink, installed in the garden, between The Tower and the building of Les Forges.
When the Parc des Ateliers closed in 1984, Les Forges building was used as a storage area. Its roof was partially destroyed in a fire in 1986, after which the building was abandoned for several years.
The exterior courtyard, Terrasse des Forges, located at the western end of the structure, within the original building, is a multi-purpose space that includes a café and spaces for conferences and concerts.
The 19th century industrial buildings were restored by the studio of Annabelle Selldorf.
By maintaining the original structure, the relationship between inside and outside is balanced.
This space was a perfect refuge for a break, offering refreshments and a cool spot out of the Provençal sun.
The messages “La peur devor l’âme” and “Fear devours the soul” flank the sides of the service counter at the Terrasse des Forges.
From these photos, it’s clear we arrived in the late afternoon when the exhibitions were closing. Instead, we walked the grounds, stopped for a drink at the Terrace des Forges, and enjoyed the various sculptures and architectural spaces in the lingering August sunlight.
More to come in Part 2.
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