After over a decade of living in Lausanne, Switzerland, we’d often heard about the famous Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville in Crissier, a charming “villagesque” suburb nearby. Finally, before moving back to the US, we couldn’t resist and booked a lunch there.
Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville achieved its three Michelin star status in 1989 under chef Frédy Girardet. This prestigious rating has been continuously upheld by his successors, including Philippe Rochat and Benoît Violier. Since 2016, Chef Franck Giovannini has continued to maintain the restaurant’s three-star status.
Although the restaurant was fully booked, the dining room (Room Frédy Girardet) was serene, its decoration luxurious but understated. This is where the whole history of the restaurant began.
During the meal, we were warmly welcomed by the chef’s wife, adding a personal touch to a memorable experience.
The chef noted on their web site that they work the ingredient without overly mixing the tastes. The dishes that structure the menu are conceived to avoid repeating flavours. The ingredients are selected to create dishes that value the harmonious combination of textures. Here are some of the dishes we had.
Fine tartlet of Green brans from Vinzel haricot juice with Oscietra caviar
Porcini and Chaterelles with Petite Arvine wine candied eggplant and spicy spinach oil
Crispy red Mullet fillet tasty reduction with three carrots and lime
Delicate Bouchot Mussels opened with Dezaley purple artichokes mousseline and leek shards
Beef from the Prealps tenderloin grilled BBQ style sweet corn and smoked paprika dauphine potatoes
There were about 40 different varieties of fresh and ripened cheeses! That was more choices than any of the cheese courses we have had.
Crunchy peacn and pistachio shell refreshing sherbet and creamy sauce with honey from the chef’s own bees
Valais Apricot frosted mille-feuille smooth ice cream flavored with verbena
Many ingredients were sourced locally. Overall, every dishes tasted good. The presentation was at a very high standard and not ostentatious.
In January 2016, Benoît Violier, then head chef of the restaurant died by suicide at age 44. His death came as a shock to the culinary world. Having trained under the restaurant’s previous chef, Philippe Rochat, Violier took over in 2012 and helped maintain its prestigious three Michelin stars while also earning the Gault Millau guide’s highest ratings.
The reasons for his suicide remain complex, though some reports suggested that stress from the intense demands of his role and the pressure to maintain excellence might have played a part. His passing highlighted the often-overlooked mental health challenges faced by top chefs in high-stakes environments.
Interestingly, the restaurant offers cooking lessons. For a full-day lesson it costs 700 CHF (about 800 USD)! But you get to prepare 4 savoury recipes and 2 desserts from 09h00 until 17h00 under the tutelage of a 3-Michelin star, 19/20 Gault & Millau culinary establishment.
Switzerland is well-known for its excellence in hospitality training. One standout experience is dining at the restaurant in the prestigious hotel school EHL (École hôtelière de Lausanne), which has earned a Michelin star, 16/20 Gault & Millau. Another memorable experience was at the Anne-Sophie Pic restaurant in Lausanne, recognized with two Michelin stars, 18/20 Gault & Millau. For a look at these culinary adventures, check out our post on Le Berceau-des-sens at EHL and Pic at Hôtel Beau-Rivage Palace.
We’ve been sharing fewer food photos on the blog lately. But posting “food porn” feels like living the early 2000’s, millennium days.