We’ve always had a soft spot for books and have shared our favorite bookstores around the world on this blog. So when we discovered a historic book-designer in Provence, we knew it deserved a story of its own.
While we were on a walking tour of Les Baux-de-Provence in the Alpilles mountain, northeast of Arles, we came across a printing house (imprimerie, gravure means engraving). A closer look revealed that this is a studio and museum created by the Fondation Louis Jou.
Here is a link to the village on Google map. The studio is located on Grand Rue Frédéric Mistral.
Les Baux is perched high on a rocky plateau offering a panoramic view of the area.
Enjoy some music while browsing.
Louis Jou (1881–1968) was a Catalan-born master printer, engraver, typographer, and book designer who settled in Les Baux-de-Provence in 1939 and died in 1968. He moved to Paris in 1906 and opened his shop by 1921.
He’s often called an “architect of the book” for handling everything. He designed and used his own typefaces; produced fine-press editions with woodcuts/engravings, handling the full chain from design to printing.
Opposite the museum is L’Atelier Louis Jou—his working print shop—equipped with three Stanhope heavy iron hand presses, cases of his type, and engraving tools. The foundation uses the shop for demonstrations and education.
The site runs workshops in wood engraving, typography, and book arts, using Jou’s original presses and type; the shop is fully operational for teaching and events.
Louis Jou bought and restored the Renaissance Hôtel Jean de Brion in Les Baux; after his death it became the Fondation/Musée Louis Jou.
It was interesting to see the equipment in the studio which was used to create books “from scratch” in early 20th century.
Jou used the moveable lead type to hand-compose text, which he often paired with his own intricate wood engravings. The individual letters were arranged in a composing stick before being locked into a metal frame (letterpress forme) to be printed on his Stanhope presses.
On display in the museum are books by or about André Suarès (1868-1948), a French poet and critic who was involved with Nouvelle Revue Francaise, an important literary magazine founded in 1909.
The print shop was selling the poster ‘Toro Piscine” (Bull Pool).
“The management is not responsible for accidents – Bull Pool“
While we were wandering through the narrow cobblestone lanes of Les Baux, discovering the studio/museum offered an unexpected cultural contrast to the sweeping, postcard-perfect views of the Provençal countryside.
Related to this trip to Provence, we have posted so far on the Exhibition of Paul Cezanne’s work in Aix-en-Provence and LUMA foundation’s site in Arles, Part 1 and Part 2. Check them out.
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