Month: October 2020

  • Riads and Dars, part 3

    Riads and Dars, part 3

    This is the last of a series of posts which document our experiences in several traditional moroccan hotels, known as riads or dars. The earlier posts are here and here. In Fes, we tried to stay in Riad Fes but it was fully booked. The riad is situated in the medina and guests are expected…

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  • Port of Essaouira – part 2

    Port of Essaouira – part 2

    Port of Essaouira – part 1 is here. The ocean off Morocco’s Atlantic coast is one of the richest fishing grounds in the world. This post is about human-scale commercial fishing. Have you heard the seminal 1994 collaboration of Ry Cooder and Ali Farka Toure – Talking Timbuktu ? The all-time favs here are “Ai…

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  • Port of Essaouira – part 1

    Port of Essaouira – part 1

    Essaouira (الصويرة‎; in Portuguese: Mogador) is a historical city on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. We spent a couple of days in Essaouira after our trip to the desert. It was nice to see some water after days of sand and rocks. The medina of Essaouira, formerly named Mogador (name originating from the Phoenician word Migdol meaning…

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  • Kasbah at Telouet, Home of the Pasha of Marrakech

    Kasbah at Telouet, Home of the Pasha of Marrakech

    On our way to Essaouira from Ouarzazate, we took a detour on P1506 to see Telouet Kasbah, but passing Ait Benhaddou (a United Nations Word Heritage site which regrettably we did not stop to explore). To accompany your reading, highly recommended is Stephen Micus’s quiet contemplative Nomad Songs published by ECM. We arrived at Telouet…

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